We kept our eagle eyes trained on our screens at the Spring/Summer 2021 shows – which happened last June – and, in turn, distilled all the key looks that you should be buying right now. From new utility to neo-neon, there’s a plethora of high-octane masculine fashion to choose from.

The utility

The utility trend has been doing the rounds for several seasons now, with the safari jacket obsession reaching fever pitch at the Spring/Summer 2020 shows. Now, for Spring/Summer 2021, the look has been updated with more of an all-round “high-function” vibe. From the military-man-meets-twitcher-in-town field jackets at Gucci and Zegna (cut from canvas at the former and leather at the latter) to the all-over safari looks at Balmain and that insanely luxurious crocodile field jacket at Dior, this summer it’s all about looking like you’re coming out of the apocalypse fighting (which you kind of will be).


Big and bold Bermuda shorts

Bermuda and Casual shorts have started making more of an appearance on the world’s runways of late, but for SS21 the look really comes into its own, with the general mood being almost over the top in its soft-hued summery-ness. At Casablanca, MSGM and Zegna, shorts were tailored in shades of sea foam, lilac and candyfloss, while at Dolce & Gabbana and Gucci patterns prevailed. The key to wearing your own Bermudas this summer is to pick a pair that finish just above the knee and to make a statement with your footwear. Some white running trainers worn with tube socks, for instance, or a pair of this season’s strongest dad sandals.


The styling note

“One of the easiest garments to wear in your summer wardrobe, this fine-gauge Breton sweater
from Charcoal is arch-Gallic-style to the last. Wear with a pair of caramel Bermuda shorts and a pair of male Mary Janes from Hereu on warmer days and with a pair of slim-cut white jeans and chi-chi Hermès loafers when the sun goes in.” TvdB


Non-Neon

Neon, perhaps unsurprisingly, is not the easiest colour trend in the world to pull off. That being said, if you get it right, it can really work. For inspiration, look to some of Paris’ biggest brands this season. At Dior, Kim Jones sent out neon-flecked worker jackets and fluorescent-yellow romper suits at his Amoako Boafo-inspired show, while both Hermès and Homme Plissé Issey Miyake featured bright neon separates teamed with muted tailoring – which is exactly the way you should be wearing this trend too.


The styling note

"If you're sartorially audacious enough to wear a pair of Leather shoes by Emochee I'm going to assume you know what you're doing.” TvdB